6.6 miles, 9,300’ Elevation, 1,020’ Ascent follow the famed John Muir Trail to two high altitude, crystalline lakes with breathtaking views of the iconic 10,911’ Cathedral Peak surrounded by imposing peaks over 10,000’ Echo and Tresidder.
After two mornings of Tuolumne campsite shuffle, we were finally just a few steps away from the John Muir Trail above the campground to link up with the revered Cathedral Lakes trailhead. After years of never “winning” the lottery to hike the Sierras and watching stunning images through the eyes of “you-tubers” - this was our brief but spectacular moment to walk the edges of the back country.
“This I may say is the first time I have been to church in California” — John Muir, after his first recorded ascent of Cathedral Peak in 1869.
157 years later, the awe that Muir felt still pervades the air, caresses the branch of every tree and illuminates the leaves of every plant. So many years, so many changes and yet nature continues as she always has, to be so overwhelmingly beautiful.
Upper Lake
After 2.5 miles on the JMT, we arrived at the trailhead. A wide path with countless steps wound its way up the hillside at an easy grade, thanks to the trail’s equine accommodations. Although we passed by the horse camp on our way to the JMT, we unfortunately never saw horses on the trail. The only mule-train was of the two-legged variety in the form of a guided tour. We took the opportunity to ask the tour guide about the twisted bark scars we had seen on the Mono Pass trail (cause is still inconclusive) and to check the status of the Dome Fire. Another 1,000 acre spread, still less than 40% contained, and yet, our luck with blue skies continued. The only visible evidence of the fire that day - one tiny piece of ash that wafted to the ground right in front of us on our descent.
Just before we reached the junction to the lakes, the trail leveled out passing through meadows alight with fall colors, and around each corner, another glimpse of the majestic Cathedral Peak.
A young ranger hiking in for the weekend caught up to us on the Upper Lake trail. Not having seen a ranger on any trail in so long, it was great to have the opportunity to walk with him awhile and most importantly to thank him for his dedication to protecting our public lands.
We stopped at the lake edge for lunch and then walked to the other side to check out the backcountry campsites, trying not to be too envious of those already setting up camp.
Lower Lake
By the time we arrived back at the junction to the Lower Lake it was late afternoon. Just a few steps down the trail, a yellow-bellied marmot was in his spot on a sun-warmed rock in no hurry to leave. Amazingly for us, we were able to share another uninterrupted moment with one of the Sierra’s wildlife, admiring his beautiful colors and charming buck teeth.
Lower Lake was just as striking - from the fall color displays amongst the sub-alpine trees to the expansive granite beach lining the water’s edge. A splendor to behold and every bit the paradise I had imagined.
It was after 5:30pm when we took our last photos of the stoic pines wondering, “were they here with Muir some 157 years ago or more?”
Whether we wanted to or not, the time had come to fast track our way back. We had already logged over 9 miles and still had almost 7 miles to camp. After a failed attempt to yogi a ride with a couple hikers heading down to the parking lot, we decided to skip returning on the JMT and walked from the parking lot alongside the road back to camp, shaving off a couple extra miles. We arrived just before dusk - our longest day and highest mileage hike in over a year - and at elevation. Day-by-day, we were regaining our fitness in the most beautiful way possible.
Our stats: 10 hrs on trail, 14.3 miles, 2,210’ Ascent, Max Elevation 9,642’