Maungatapu Saddle to Nelson ~ Jan 6-9, # 18
Camp 2 to Nelson/Tahunanui Beach: 19.6 mi / 32 km; Ascent 1,549 ft / 472 m, Descent 3,683 ft / 1,123 m
According to the cycle trail guides, in the last 4 km/2.5 mi, just a few meters after Murderers Rock to the Maungatapu Saddle, the road ascends 400 m/1,312 ft. From our second camp, we had less than a kilometer to the Saddle, and just when we thought the road couldn’t get any steeper - it did. Around our first corner, we passed a recent rock slide and then a road-side campsite next to Camp Creek, most inviting, but we did prefer our hidden spots away from the road. Almost at the top, still heads-down pushing at what felt like a snail’s pace, a strange-shape on the side of the road caught my eye - a tree Weta! To see one up close was so exciting, since they are mostly nocturnal, and one of the few insects to have survived the dinosaur era.
The Saddle!
Looking back from the Saddle down the valley whence we came - softly, softly catchee monkey
Atop the Saddle, just as we had hoped - blue skies and high scattered clouds gave us a spectacular view of Nelson and the far off horizons laced with mountains. The Saddle (807 m) intersects with a ridge line traverse from Saddle Hill (1217 m) crossing over to Maungatapu peak (1014 m) continuing South to eventually link up with the TA hiking route. It was so tempting to spend a night here to enjoy the views, but try as we might, there were no hidden or flat spots to be found and, we later discovered, a “no camping” sign.
The Descent to Maitai River Valley!!
After visiting with a Canadian bike packing couple that caught up to us, and watching some motorcyclists squeeze around the locked gate, we reluctantly decided to do the same. Although the ascent to the Saddle is challenging for most, even more cyclists walk the first part of the descent that drops 600 m/1,968 ft in 7 km/4.4 mi. At least this direction, we could both hike-a-bike at the same time, instead of one bike at a time.
The descent started off in the forest on what looked like a very well maintained road, but that was short-lived. As soon as the road broke out of the dense forest, we got our first view of the Maitai River valley and the road surface ahead changed dramatically. We stood aghast at not only the steep drop, but seemingly out of nowhere, the road was now covered in slabs of shale that slid under both foot and tire, even the motorcycle tracks ran along the edges. As we crept along, carefully placing each foot, mid-way was a “Speed Hump” sign that instantly made us laugh at the absurdity of anyone coming down this at high speed. At least that section ended once we reached the river.
The road mellowed for a bit, following alongside the river, as the mountain sides closed in around us. Just as we started to think we would be cruising the rest of the way, the valley opened up again into a stretch that felt more like descending a dried out river bed, rutted and full of chunky boulders. It was at this point in the late afternoon, that two very light-weight bike packers came around the corner standing on their pedals. They were planning to reach Pelorus Bridge that same day. Neither one of us could imagine riding up what we had just descended, let alone all the way back to Pelorus Bridge - ah, youth!
We arrived at the Maitai River reservoir after 3pm realizing we still had quite a ways to go before reaching Nelson. After one last climb up to the end of the gravel track above the Maitai Dam, we rode past the caretakers house and on to Maitai Valley Road into Nelson and the official end of the Maungatapu track.
All along this stretch we kept wondering whether we could camp in one of the grassy areas alongside the river after passing a day use area, but there were no indications whether it was allowed or not. We pedaled on, marveling at the beauty of the river, amazed that sections like this aren’t designated camping areas.
Time for Beers!!!
As we got closer to the edge of town, we passed our first campground, but after looking over our options, decided to go to Tahuna Beach Holiday Park on the waterfront, a few more kilometers past the center of town. A bit further down the road, we found a bike trail through the golf course that continued along the river, through a cow paddock, a wetland, a city park until we were at the edge of the downtown residential area. A few turns on the back streets and we picked up the bike path again through town following the Maitai River to its end in Tasman Bay.
From there we continued along the waterfront, until we found a spot for our post-ride meal and a Cheers! before heading to the caravan park. A perfect end to the day - or so we thought…
Nelson
We arrived at our chosen waterfront caravan park, still in the height of the Kiwi holidays. Not only was the park massive - it was crammed full of every type of RV and house-sized tent you can imagine with no space in between. We were grateful to get any spot at all, until we started navigating the streets to find our tent site. It felt like we had entered a suburb without walls, or fences, except the one separating this mass from the residential area on the other side.
Much to our dismay, we had just paid for a well used patch of grass (#555) with no table, or trees, to lean our bikes and a buzz of humanity all around us. Having just come out of the serenity of the back country, and a long days ride, it was a bit much to comprehend. After deliberating over our fate, Nivaun decided to walk the streets looking for anything else that might be available, while I stood in our patch of grass holding both bikes, anxiously awaiting “the verdict” once again.
Somehow the travel genies were working overtime that night. Nivaun returned to excitedly lead me over to our “new” campsite (#426) - next to the beachfront walkway, next to a tree, next to a wire fence just tall enough to lean our bikes, and most importantly, it felt worlds away from the “caravan corral of chaos”! It was nothing short of a true miracle!
Over the next couple days, we sat out more rounds of rain, rode back and forth into town to resupply and replace some of our worn-out gear, enjoyed brilliant sunsets, rode the beach and dined on seafood fare and sampled local beers. It was a well deserved break for the body and soul.
