Queen Charlotte Track: Day 3-4 ~ Dec 24-25, # 14
Morning Mist on Camp Bay
Nothing can compare to waking with the first sounds of the forest - on this morning it was the Bellbird intermixed with the sweet chatter of what I can only describe as a multitude of song birds. The clouds that had lifted by night fall, returned in the form of thick fog shrouding the hill tops. No rain in the forecast - it was now a waiting game to see if the vapor would lift in time for us to take in the views across the Sounds on both sides as we traversed the ridge line.
We rose early to repack our gear before taking it back to the resort by 9 am, ready for the water taxi to pick it up at some point during the day and drop it at the dock in Torea Bay. The 9 am bag drop was one of the main reasons why we decided to spend two nights at each campground. Staying only one night at each camp felt way too rushed for our chosen retired pace of life. While I tried to lighten my load, Nivaun decided to keep the tent this time, so we could set it up as soon as we got to camp and secure a spot, just in case the campground was again filling up by the time we arrived on Christmas Eve.
More Trail Magic
Our next campground was on the west side of Torea Saddle at Cowshed Bay on Kenepuru Sound. A short but steep road, the only access point to the dock where our gear would be dropped was on the east side at Torea Bay on Queen Charlotte Sound. In the initial excitement of booking our trip, we didn’t fully appreciate the fact that to pick up our gear, we had to leave the track at the top of Torea Saddle, ride down the steep hill to the dock, then fully loaded, ride back up to the saddle to descend another kilometer down the other side to camp on Cowshed Bay, and then repeat to drop our bags off by 9 am. After our Day 1 riding experience and late arrival, I was really wishing I had taken the suggestion of the water taxi company, and called the resort near the campground to shuttle our gear back and forth to the dock, whatever the fee, it felt worth it now.
And then, trail magic appeared in the form of a hiker, looking at her phone in the covered sitting area where we dropped our bags that morning. I just had to ask - “Did you find wifi here?” I was able to connect, but couldn’t make a call, so she suggested asking the resort receptionist to make the call for me - and within minutes our bag shuttle was arranged!
To Cowshed Bay - Day 3
First half of the day
Second half of the day - In total: 18 mi/29 km; Ascent 3,463 ft / 1,056 m, Descent 3,443 ft / 1,049 m
On our first day of riding from Ship’s Cove to Camp Bay, the track was mostly ATV tracks used by locals to travel from their waterfront oasis to connect to the only road on the west side along Kenepuru Sound. From this point on, it was narrower single track, linking stock trails that traversed the ridge line across private land. The description of this section includes mention of the sealed road along Kenepuru Sound as an easier alternate route. But we weren’t giving up yet, hopeful - the views would be worth the effort.
Leaving Camp Bay, the narrow track switchbacks up to the Kenepuru Saddle and proved to be more than I could navigate on two wheels, even after a rest day, and attempting to lighten my load, so we pushed our way to the top.
As we crossed the road at Kenepuru Saddle, the clouds began to lift, and the grade leveled out for longer stretches, giving us the rewards we were hoping for the rest of the day.
At Gattenby Gulch, we got our first views across the west side where sections are still used for farming and tree plantations.
After our first views of the Marlborough Sounds at sea level, it was interesting to learn more about the geology that has shaped this northern section of the South Island, while standing atop Kenepuru Head. The very ground beneath our feet for the last 12,000 years has been slowly moving North, as it slides further into the sea.
As we continued on climbing/walking around the next bend, Vanessa, a Red Admiral, came along to distract us. According to Wiki, “it is known as an unusually calm butterfly, often allowing observation at a very close distance before flying away, also landing on and using humans as perches.”
By noon, we reached the overlook at Bay of Many Coves and decided to have lunch with a Weka before continuing on along the ridge. As we passed by the two DOC shelters with epic views, we momentarily wished we had all our gear…until we had to push our bikes around the next corner.
Bay of Many Coves
Looking SW at Kenepuru Sound
The rest of the sidehill traverse along the top was easy to navigate giving us plenty of time to stop and soak in the views all around. The downhill to the saddle where we would turn off the track to camp was a wild ride past walls of sandstone and giant beech trees. Caught up in the thrill of a long descent and side glances along the way - I almost crashed, but recovered in time, reminding me to contain my exuberance.
Looking to the SE towards Picton
We arrived at the saddle where the road crosses over and were more than grateful we didn’t have to ride to the dock to retrieve our gear. Instead, we descended on the sealed road down the other side to the resort, and heaved a huge sigh of relief when we spotted our gear stashed in a stall next to the entrance. After happily paying our shuttle fee and collecting a complimentary candy cane, we continued on down the road to the shoreline.
Cowshed Bay from the deck at the Resort
This time just a few TA hikers were camped across the road, which meant, once again, we had a beach-front campsite all to ourselves.
Day 4 - Rest Day at Cowshed Bay
To be honest, I am writing this blog 4 months later, and I can’t quite remember what we did the next day that was of much interest. So I decided to look back to see where we were a year ago in Tasmania - our Christmas morning surprise - wombats grazing alongside the sand dunes where we had wild camped on the West Coast.
Now don’t get me wrong - New Zealand is amazing…but if I haven’t said it before - we truly miss the mammals of Australia - both warm and cold-blooded. It may stem from the hole we still feel, since both our beloved Aussies are no longer at our side.
But New Zealand - I really appreciate the effort to surprise us the next morning with this lil’ critter hanging onto the edge of the Amenities block (toilet/showers) - a Prickly Stick Bug. According to Wiki they are “native throughout New Zealand, although it is less frequently reported than "common" stick insect species” - so a rare sighting at that - even more special!
