Queen Charlotte Track: Day 5-6 ~ Dec 26-27, # 15
Day 5 - To Mistletoe Bay
9.18 mi / 15 km; Ascent 2,483 ft / 757 m, Descent 2,489 ft=759 m
The QCT guide suggests riding from Torea Saddle to Anakiwa 20.5km to finish the ride in 3 days, but we decided to split the last section in half. Most riders take the water taxi at Anakiwa back to Picton the same day. We planned to continue riding to the nearby town of Havelock to camp before continuing on to the West Coast. Logistics aside - we were more than ready to stop at Mistletoe. As the QCT guide book states - “This section of the track begins with a long steep climb (Grade 5/expert), lots of pushing and rewarding switch backs on descent.” And this was not over stated - except for the “rewarding switch backs” - at that point the trail turned into a deeply rutted out creek bed. We still had the option of a leisurely road ride along Kenepuru Sound - but what’s a little discomfort in exchange for another day of amazing vistas.
When we returned to the resort to drop off our bags that morning, we learned how fortunate we were that it was even possible. The road to the resort had just reopened in early December after a major slip closed the road in 2022, preventing the resort from shuttling bags to the dock.
As we pulled out of the parking lot behind the shuttle van, it was somewhat of a relief to be able to actually ride a hill on a sealed road, before the “pushing” up the track began. In about a kilometer, we reached the first ridge where we could see above the bush. Behind us, the idyllic bay we had just left. In front of us, the next challenge, staring us in the face. “Grin and Bear It” was the mantra of the morning.
On our way to the high point of the QCT from sea level - Shamrock Ridge at 407 m/1,335 ft - the mist moved in. After a day of blue sky and white clouds, this morning our views were shape-shifting in shades of gray, as low hanging clouds moved around us, accentuating the fact that we had earned our place amongst them. Across the bay, far in the distance, a valley filled with endless ridges, made my heart swell at the thought of the mountain ranges that awaited us further South.
Hills, Clouds & Mist still didn’t dampen our spirits
It was after noon by the time we reached Shamrock Ridge and caught up to the day hikers we had met at the resort, a father from the UK visiting his daughter studying abroad for a year. She offered to take some snaps for us before they continued on. A bench on the other side of the bushes looking out over the Sound called out to us to break for lunch - or maybe it was the Weka.
Looking SW heading to Mistletoe Bay on the east side of the Sound, Kenepuru Sound
View from near Shamrock Ridge, where you can see Lochmara Bay in Queen Charlotte Sound (left) and Puketea Bay in Kenepuru Sound (right).
It was surprising how much the terrain changed along the ridge, from walls of native bush, to tunnels of Manuka, to open fields of tall grasses. Some stretches were rideable, but most of the time…we were pushing, and sometimes even walking, downhill. The one steep downhill through an open field, I thought should be safe to ride, quickly reminded me of my skill level, as I somehow slid off the front, and was jolted back to reality - walking along this section was not optional.
Unlike our joyous ride on the final downhill to Torea Saddle the day before, the purported “rewarding switchbacks” down to this saddle were narrow, full of chunky rock and tight switchbacks. Nivaun navigated most of it, but I was quite happy to plod along on foot. Relieved to reach the Te Mahia Saddle by mid afternoon, we cruised down the sealed road to Mistletoe Bay. At this location, the campground was actually a small caravan park with all the amenities including a camp store and full kitchen.
Waiting for us at reception was a special package from the UK couple that had already finished the track in 3 days. At our first and only camp together, Nivaun repaired a puncture in one of their tubeless tires, allowing them to continue riding the rest of the track worry-free. When they stayed at Mistletoe on their last night, they left us a goodie bag of chocolate and holiday ginger beers from the camp store.
Day 6 - Rest Day?
By mid-morning, the family-run campground was brimming with kiwi families, tourists and trampers, confirming the summer holiday season had officially kicked into high gear. And with it the chaos of finding space for every last caravan, truck, car and house-size tent. In the confusion over who was booked into which space, we found ourselves relocating our tent from our first spot to another a few meters away.
To escape the hub-bub, we walked far enough along the track out to the Peninsula to confirm it was the preferred way to return to the saddle and avoid dodging the holiday-makers traveling the steep narrow road from the campground the next morning.
By nightfall, the dock was full of laughter and screams as kids splashed and jumped in the phosphorescence. Unfortunately we couldn’t capture it with any of our cameras. And amongst the non-stop excitement, the stingrays that live in this bay were no where to be found.
