Tasmania - Tarkine Coastal Route Prelude
December 17-19, 2023
A Plan with Holes
It took two more days for the skies to clear which gave us time to prepare for heading into the most remote part of Tasmania along the West Coast. Our plan this time was to head to Marrawah down to Arthur River and then ride along the beach as far as we could before heading inland to Zeehan for a resupply. Along the beach, there would be several river crossings that at low tide were manageable. The one unknown would be crossing the Pieman Head - for that we would need a ferry across the river at the headland which meant coordinating a boat with Corinna Wilderness Retreat. If that didn’t work out, then we would take the inland route following the Western Explorer road at some point further North. The other unknown was how long it would actually take us on either route, and how much food we could really carry, and still not have to push up every hill or through sinking sand.
And yes, we are still young enough, at least in our heads, to think we can attempt what other 20-30yo bike packers do in a time-crunched vacation with a lot less gear.
A Plan with Benefits
Of course, as is the case with any good “plan”, once it is made, it is certain it will be abandon - the question is at what point along the way. For us - it was before we even left Smithton.
Being the chuck wagoner of our two-party crew, I couldn’t leave Smithton without stopping at the local grocery for last minute items before we headed into the wild unknown. As per usual, Nivaun was left on the front-line of the sidewalk to engage with anyone curious about us and/or our bikes. In most cases, it is a casual chat, others express a keen interest in following our travels, and then there is the occasional chance meeting that ends in an invitation beyond our imagination.
As I returned with the last minute essentials, Nivaun informed me that we were now stopping at Montagu campground before continuing on to Marrawah. We were to call ahead and let the hosts know we were coming and to ask if they could store our bikes while we took a day trip over to Robbins Island. Incredibly, one of the owners of the island had just stopped to inquire about our travels, having done a long distance ride many years ago himself, and the conversation ended with an invitation to visit the Island.
Robbins Island Up Close
Strangely, just the day before we had been looking over the map, curious about the islands off the Northern tip only to learn they weren’t really accessible - the closest one, Robbins Island being privately owned. Our host at the caravan park filled us in with some background about the area and the islands, so we were a bit disappointed that we couldn’t venture further.
And yet, here we were at Montagu campground. Arrangements made to store our bikes in the morning, and await the crew coming by with the barge to take us over to the island where we would join our host, met just the morning before. From the moment the boat backed down the ramp, we were launched into sharing a morning commute with the ranch manager and his crew jetting across the turquoise bay lit up by the morning sun rays. Arriving at the beach, we piled into the Jeep with some, while others mounted their 4-wheeled steeds, including one 3-legged cattle dog, quite apt at navigating out of the boat to atop the back of an ATV.
Once at the rendezvous point with our host, the crew went off to work, and we joined our host to continue on around the other side of the island to their historic homestead atop the hill. We spent the morning getting to know one another and had the privilege of hearing the history of the island, even before it came under the ownership of the family that is now a part of its history and shaping its future. It was a most memorable experience to hear from a historian, mid-stream in making their own mark on what will continue beyond our time. After exploring the homestead area, we rejoined the crew to observe first-hand the high-tech management of breeding Wagyu stock, and then left the island by land of sorts - via a fleeting sand bridge that reappears with the change of tides, clearing a path, as the tide exits from both sides of the bay.
It was a chance meeting, that left us feeling much richer in our appreciation of what makes Tasmania a place like no other - in it’s landscape, but even more so, in the people that have made it home. (To learn more about Robbins Island click here).
Australian Hospitality, Continued
Arriving back at the campground, after our early morning rise, we agreed to take a rest day before continuing on to Marrawah. Already anxious about our food reserves, I began rationalizing riding back to Smithton to replenish the now unplanned couple of extra days. To my surprise, Nivaun had no sooner left, than he returned to the tent, calling out to get ready to head into Smithton - our campground host would drive us the 20 minutes into town. Relieved we could both go into the store this time, Nivaun made sure we added enough surplus to allay my fears of going h-angry.
On our way back to camp, we learned it was our host’s birthday and they were heading back into town that evening for dinner. Shortly after storing away our extra food reserves, our host returned again inviting us to join them for dinner, making our day of unplanned, unexpected invitations complete but far from over.
The next day, our campground hosts treated us to a day of Australian cuisine. We awoke to a full-on brekkie that felt like a buffet, and then spent the afternoon cleaning up camp and wandering the coastline to burn it off, in preparation for a true Aussie BBQ around the campfire that evening under a star-filled sky.
We were overwhelmed with the kindness and generosity and truly appreciated the opportunity to meet and spend time with each one. If this was any indication of how the rest of our West Coast adventure would go - we were in for far more than a bike ride.
